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Krua Thai's Pad Thai

In the dusty sands of time, I remember pad Thai as tasty, even thrilling, stiff bundles of rice pasta slicked with orange oil, oversweetened with palm sugar, sprinkled with peanut dust and plopped on top of a mass of bean sprouts. Mmmm – peanut dust. Not so much later, I recall, a woman broke up with me because I insisted on ordering pad Thai every time we went to the old Chao Praya, citing it as proof of my severe lack of imagination. ( In my defense, Chao Prays's pad Thai was an awfully good plate of noodles.) But the ultra–spicy, tamarind–soured, fish–sauce–laced house–special version at KrusThai is about as good as pad Thai gets, a powerful dish that retains some of the exoticism bred out of it by a thousand inferior versions, sweet and squiggly and delicious, stocked with both tofu and big shrimp — the dish made vivid again after decades as cliché.

— LA Weekly / February 26-March 4 2010